Q.1: Septic systems are permitted through county health departments. A professional engineer is often required to conduct percolation tests and describe the soil below the area of the system. A good plot plan which shows distances from property lines, wells, and other site features should be drawn. Septic systems should be at least 100 feet from all wells and surface water. The size of the septic system is based upon the number of residents, the number of bedrooms, and from percolation test results.

Q.2: Septic systems last an average of 20 years. A properly constructed and maintained system can last longer. A system that is not maintained can fail in 2 years or less. Regular maintenance protects the investment and avoids replacement costs. Maintenance also protects the health of your family, the community and the environment. Replacing a failing septic system can cost from $3,000 to $10,000 compared to the $150 to $350 that it costs to have the system inspected and pumped out.

When systems fail, inadequately treated household wastewater is released into the environment. This can contaminate nearby wells, ground water, and drinking water sources. Any contact with untreated human waste can pose significant health risks.

Septic system maintenance is simple:

• Every 3 years have a licensed septic system plumper pump the solids from the tank.
• Water conservation is very important. Knowing what not to flush is important. Do not use the septic system for disposal of anything that can easily be put into the trash. This only adds to the solids build up that will eventually need to be pumped out.
• Avoid grinding up food scraps, coffee grounds, and disposing of grease and cooking oils down the drains.
• Use toilet paper that is biodegradable and approved for use in septic systems by the National Sanitation Foundation (NSF).
• Don't plant trees within 6 feet of the system, their roots will clog the pipes.
• Don't allow anyone to drive over or park on the septic system.
• Don't fence livestock over the septic system.
• Don't dig in or cover the drain field with concrete or asphalt. Grass should be the only cover.
• Don't pour harmful chemicals or cleansers into the system. Paints, varnishes, thinners, waste oils, photographic solutions, and pesticides can destroy the biological action in the system and pollute the environment.
• Don't attempt to repair the septic system without obtaining the required health department permits and when making repairs use a licensed septic contractor.
• Use appropriate caution when inspecting the septic system. Toxic gases from tanks can kill in minutes so hire a professional.

Q.3: There are two main parts to the basic septic system: the tank and the drain field.

The household wastewater flows into the tank where the average detention time is 30 hours. The tank should have at least 1,000 gallon capacity. Three layers are formed in the septic tank.

There are baffles in the tank which keep the wastewater flowing though the tank at a level near the middle of the tank.

Solids settle to the bottom forming a layer of sludge.

The grease and foam float to the top forming a scum layer.

Both the sludge and scum layers remain in the tank where bacteria work to break them down. In time, the layers build in size. When the layers become too large and take up too much space in the tank, the tank needs to be pumped. Every 3-5 years the tank should be pumped out by a licensed septic system pumper. If the system is not pumped out when it is full of solids, the wastewater is not fully treated and solid material can be carried into the drain field.

Solids in the drain field can clog pipes and seal pores in the soil. When the pores become sealed with solids the water no longer percolates as it should. The drain field provides additional treatment of the wastewater. In the drain field, wastewater trickles though a series of perforated pipes, though a layer of gravel, and down though the soil. The soil and soil bacteria act as a natural filters that help treat the wastewater.

Q4: Home owners should be alert to the following warning signs of a failing septic system: 

• Test results of well water show the presence of bacteria.
• The ground in the area is wet or soggy.
• Grass grows greener or faster in the area.
• Sewage odors in the house or yard.
• Plumbing backups into the house.
• Slowly draining sinks and toilets.
• Gurgling sounds in the plumbing.

If one or more of these warning signs exist, the home owner should contact a licensed septic system pumper to have the system inspected and pumped.

Q5: County health departments issue permits and inspect systems as they are installed. If your system has been installed in the last 20 years they may have a sketch of the layout of the system. CALL YOUR COUNTY DEPARTMENT.

Septic system pumpers can usually find the tank by using a soil probe in areas where they would expect to find a tank. Tanks are usually behind the house, near the bathroom, and about 10 feet away from the foundation.

Q6: Ask you Contractor/Builder before installation what insurances and warranties he offers on the septic system functionality. The actual project work performed is usually under a 90 day warranty on the labor or that the work has passed inspection and has been installed properly. A septic system is not complicated and the homeowner should know that the piping, tanks and installation will be of the best quality to withstand environmental changes, homeowner habits and usage.

Q7: Not likely. There is nothing to insure. The system is underground, secured and installed properly a homeowner should perform general maintenance and take care on what goes down the system. Homeowner Insurance may cover accidental damages based on environmental changes or weather, but there is no need to seek additional insurance or coverage on a septic system.